The levadas (water channels) that wind around and through the mountains of Madeira provide some great walking and refreshing cold showers in the middle of the c. 300m tunnel below. You need a torch as it is almost pitch black away from the ends with low roofs and jutting out rocks.
A head for heights is a sine qua non to walk these paths, which are often narrow, with precipitous drops and frequently no handrail.
What a joy on this day to see a pair of Firecrests just a few meters from the path, seemingly unfazed by our presence.
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